Off the Grid in Sumba
Where the rice paddies meet the serene Indian Ocean.
Soft white sand doesn’t mean much to us anymore. It’s a cliche used to sell holiday packages to tour groups. If the phrase evokes anything for you, it’s probably tired images of Hawaiian shirts, crowded beaches that charge an entrance fee, and oceans that are warmed not by the sun but by the droves of tourists taking a dip. The island of Sumba might be Indonesia’s solution to this problem. Sumba’s untouched tropical coastline is adorned with wild horses roaming freely, wave after wave of soft Indian Ocean water, and genuinely pristine white sands. The type of sand that cushions your feet as you walk on it. Every beach in Sumba that we visited, many owned and maintained by the hotels that are located close by, had the same qualities: largely untouched by man, incredible ocean vistas, and the gorgeous soft, white sand that beckons you to admire and relax. Tourists are few and far between, to the point where you’ll recognize most of their faces by the end of your trip if you see them around the island.
Traditional Sumbanese homes are designed with “peaked” roofs as the locals believe the spirits or “marapu” reside here.
One of the main roads leading straight to a beach with few other people in sight- only goats.
Sumba is almost the same size as Bali, but nowhere near as well known. Local villages are scattered throughout the inner mountainous terrain, leaving the coastline undisturbed. The hoteliers that have landed in Sumba are more like entrepreneurs who have discovered Sumba’s potential and are trying to bring in more tourists in a truly sustainable way. A trip to one of the six hotels based on the coastline seems almost like a cruise ship holiday - you can eat, drink, and sleep all at the hotel, as going from place to place independently is difficult with limited roads and infrastructure. You can hire a driver or a bike to cruise through the megalithic villages and natural sites such as Lapopu Waterfall, but short of that you are left in your own nook of paradise.
A trip to Sumba promises the proper reset we all need from time to time. The wifi will be slow, there’s no mobile phone coverage on most of the island leaving you separated from the rest of the world, at least for a few blissful days in the Sumbanese sun. While the rest of the world is seemingly always trying to go faster, the best way to enjoy a Sumba holiday is to slow down.
Where to stay
The Sanubari
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Address: Pantai Dasang, Harona Kala, Laboya Barat, West Sumba Regency, East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia
A luxury escape on its own stretch of secluded beachfront. The Sanubari is a gorgeous resort with six villas, all thoughtfully designed combining modern and traditional touches, and all fitted with their own pools. Though you share the beach with your fellow guests, there is plenty of privacy making it incredibly romantic. The resort has surfboards and push bikes available to rent and can arrange a number of experiences from boat tours around the island or horseback riding along the beach. There is a beautiful surf break here that is suitable for all surfers from beginners to advanced.
NIHI
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Address: Hoba Wawi, Wanokaka, West Sumba Regency, East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia
Recently named Conde Nast Traveller’s best hotel in the world. NIHI is the gold standard of hotels on the island and around the world. The service is fantastic starting with the hotel’s airport pickup service which takes guests through the island on outdoor safari jeeps. Its 2.5km of pristine private coastline is incredible. The NIHI also puts a spotlight on sustainable luxury. The hotel runs a number of sustainability initiatives ranging from the Sumba Foundation to the turtle sanctuary (on-site at the hotel). The 27 unique villas on the property are beautifully designed and there are a number of bars and dining options at the hotel that cater to whatever mood you’re in.
Walking along NIHI’s private beach
Sunset swim in the infinity pool at NIHI
Lelewatu
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Address: Jl. Lelewatu No.168, Hoba Wawi, Wanokaka, Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara 87272, Indonesia
There isn’t a beach located close to this hotel but the cliff-side location gives the villas a unique view. Service is solid and each villa has its own dedicated staff to assist with your needs during your stay. Rooms are comfortable with private pools and decks to enjoy the view.
Alamayah
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Address: Patiala Bawa, Lamboya, West Sumba Regency, East Nusa Tenggara 081, Kerewe, Nusa Tenggara Barat 87251, Indonesia
This hotel is smaller with individual rooms instead of villas. The hotel brings tropical modernism to Bali with more rooms resembling the modern stylings of beach houses in Bali and Australia. The Alamayah’s beach-front location is a favorite among surfers.
Other recommendations:
Bring malaria medication and mosquito repellant, and be sure to opt for gin & tonics for your sunset drink. This is a must as the island does have malaria active throughout.
Bring a long book that you’ve been meaning to read and download any movies you might want to watch before your arrival. Wifi can be unreliable so streaming won’t be very smooth.
Ideal trip length: 4-5 days including travel.
Ideal trip group: Families, honeymooners, or small groups who want to stay at a hotel together. Writers looking to finish their manuscript undisturbed or those who are looking to learn how to surf.
